So we arrived in Tokyo. We couldn't book into the hotel
until 2pm but we would be arriving at about 11 and had a trip planned, a trip we had
wanted to make for ages, A trip to the Studio Ghibli Museum. So in the previous
week I had emailed the hotel to see if it would be possible to leave our bags
there before check in time and get a move on to Studio Ghibli Museum as it was by
subway over an hour away from where we were staying, Hotel Emailed back and no
problem! Now the mission started to leave our hotel in Mount Fuji and hit
Tokyo, we arrived at our destination station and the hotel website being
organised even had a video on how to get to the hotel “Chiyoda Inn” from the
station, I got lost. But have no fear I thought, The Japanese being lovely and friendly
would help and indeed they did, well one lady actually in a cake shop, She didn't
speak much English and my Japanese stretches as far as “hello” and thank you,
But with my trusty map and a few straight on twice and turn left hand gestures we
eventually found the hotel and I went in the wrong entrance, but all was
sorted, bags dropped off then on to a local café for a quick coffee and a ham and cheese toasty and away we went with maps in hand and full
faith in the Japanese folks to get us to our destination, as you can probably
gather I used there help on countless occasions! The 1st tube ride
was on, we chose the easiest station to get to and away we went……………
We arrived at Mitaka station and took the exit as advised by
our lonely planet guide, which way now though, left or right? So we looked left
and we saw what was the free shuttle bus that takes you to Ghibli, the queue
was huge so we decided to walk, Be aware Ghibli in Japan is massive and if you do plan on going you have to book tickets well in advance and sometimes being organised and Japanese you even have to choose your time slot!, it was raining quite heavily but the walk was
sheltered and It was a very nice walk. As you can see from the above pictures it’s very well sign
posted so even I didn't get lost! And then we arrived…..
The first thing you see as you arrive is a massive Totoro
standing inside a cubicle saying “open” with all the little cute sprites
staring at you through a portal window!
As you approach the museum you a greeted by the lovely people on reception who point you in the direction of the entrance, unfortunately like most museums you can't take photo's inside but the outside looks great, from the moss covered walls to the spiral tower that leads up to the roof where the robot statue from laputa castle in the sky is as well as the command cube (Thanks to my friend Chloe for informing me what that was actually called!) . So you pick up your tickets and are given as part of the ticket a set of film cells in a strip which later on around the museum you can pop in a machine and it animates!
So we entered the museum and you are greeted with a huge
open space all in wood, it basically looks like one of the many interiors of
places within the studio Ghibli catalogue, The museum was designed and opened
by the great Hayao Miyazaki and it shows. You wander around with loads of
original clay models and designs from all the films but mainly My Neighbour Totoro
, One part that was particularly stunning was a round glass case which had
about thirty Totor’s and little girls skipping and bats flying all in slightly
different poses, what happened then was that the glass case went dark and the
whole thing started spinning with a strobe light kicking in, so the effect you
got was the all were moving in front of your eyes, it was amazing!
Then you go up a flight of stairs and enter a stunning
recreation of Hayao Miyazaki’s personal study, this was mostly behind rope
bollards which was understandable as it featured a ton of his original artwork
and story boards, the walls were also covered in his drawings, There was also
huge bookshelf that featured many of the books that he says was an inspiration
and a help to his work, Books such as Animal Anatomy, History of fighter
planes, Walt Disney books and loads more, a real ecliptic mix.
We then walked around the top of the
magnificent hall into the play area for kids where there is a huge cat bus
again from Totoro, this was packed with small screaming Japanese children, it
was deafening, didn't stay there long but it was great to see.
Although by this time it was raining and raining extremely
heavy, we decided to brave the elements and make our way outside and up the
spiral staircase to the roof and go find the Laputa Robot from Laputa castle in the sky. Not surprisingly
when we got on the roof amidst the torrential rain there was no one up there
except the towering robot, it was quite surreal after coming out of the manic
and extremely busy hall to be on the roof and see the huge statue all alone in
the torrential rain, a brilliant statue. There was also a tiny winding path
through the roof garden that we then followed and it brought us to the command
cube, It was positioned to give the impression that is was embedded within the
roof, once again all brilliantly thought out.
Photos taken with Laputa and the command cube and the rain kept
coming, time to head for the shop and spend some yen! The shop was rammed, the
stuff was amazing. We walked around the best we could and picked a few bits and
bobs up. By this point in the holiday were on our final leg so had to watch
what we could by to cram into our backpacks without damaging it, There were
some brilliant statues from all the films as well as some cheap bits so a great
selection at various prices, The queue snaked out of the actual shop and around
the top of the hall but being Japan it was incredibly organised and we soon got
to the counter. They gave us our stuff in about 3 paper bags with Porco Rosso on
them and because it was raining they even wrapped it in plastic so they didn't get
wet!
We took a quick look at the coffee shop where they do coffee
with Ghibli characters drawn on the top but that was so busy we decided to head on
home. It was a great day to say the least, if a little wet. Like I said earlier
Studio Ghibli in Japan is massive, Kind of like how Disney is in the states,
The film Spirited Away is the highest grossing film ever in Japan, Even films
like Avatar and Titanic didn't take as much as Spirited away so that
gives you some indication of how popular the films are. With the latest Ghibli
release of The Wind Rises which sadly will be Miyazaki’s final film it has opened
to rave reviews. So even with his departure the talent that he has nurtured is
still very much alive and long may it continue. We waved our final
goodbyes at the gate to Totoro in his cubicle, Good Choice Totoro at least you
stayed dry in there!
Jonny T.
Jonny, another fantastic post. The place looks incredible, pity the rain spoils it slightly for your photos, but you sell it well! Shamefully enough, me and my wife are only starting into the 'Ghibli' thing now, and that's because of a chance screening she caught of 'Howls Moving Castle'. Saying that though, I do have plenty of great films to catch up on, by the looks of it.
ReplyDeleteThe rain was harsh but it was brilliant, The one that really got me into Ghibli was My Neighbour Totoro, seek that one out it is brilliant.
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